Made by Me!

Wednesday, 12 February 2014

Toile away!



So I cut out the fabric and sewed up the toile without the sleeves. First impressions are that the notches didn’t match on the back pieces and there are huge triangular pieces of fabric which poke out from the top of the front of each sewn up princess seam section.
Okay huge might be an over statement but the pieces don’t match up so there seems to be some issue with mismatched pieces. I thought I had cut out the wrong sizes on different parts of the pattern but thankfully this isn’t the case as I didn’t relish the idea of sticking another '100' pages together and cutting it all out again. It was laborious and time consuming to say the least and it finished off my sellotape!! The second issue is its massive! It looks like it would drown me for a fitted jacket.
 
Fitting wise firstly I used my intuition to take in the princess seams where it is most baggy around the waist. I have no problem with the bust area and shoulders so far. I thought it was too large at the back and tried pinning all the seams but I took the middle section out again as it produced a fullness on the upper back and was actually a little tight. I ended up pinning some of the excess fabric horizontally on the middle of the back section which I think looks a little like a sway back adjustment after googling various fitting techniques. There is still a way to go to get this right I think, especially as I am not sure how fitted is too fitted but I guess there has to be a little trial and error at this stage!

I admit I bought this class probably when everyone else was actually making the jacket a couple of years ago and I just sat on it for ages not doing anything with it. I usually just log on to Craftsy as normal and access it through my homeroom but apart from noticing they had made a comment about the lack of tutor comments I didn’t really think anything had changed with this course. So when I came to click on a link to the class on someone else’s page yesterday it said the class has been retired which I was saddened about. I love Gertie's stuff and whilst so far I am not so impressed with the detail of the course it would be nice if they would update it and add to it rather than give it up.

I have Gertie's book (and love it) and think a similar jacket is in there so may use this as additional ‘help’ as well as coming back to the wise words of everyone else who has attempted the jacket - they recommend to look out for certain pit falls, mainly to watch a whole class before committing to any sewing to check you have all the information you need to move forward and most importantly to check out other ways to do some of the techniques – many people have said the bound buttonholes can be done much easier but as I haven’t done them before I wouldn’t know!

In reality I love the shape of the jacket and I am now kind of intrigued by the whole class and what I will come out with at the end. So I will continue with the hope it will turn out lovely. In the meantime if anyone has any ideas of how to make the fitting better that would be much appreciated!

On to other slightly related and exciting news - and I haven't posted this due to working most of the weekend and being ridiculously exhausted from a long week in general (its old age....) but I managed to enrol in a skirt sloper pattern cutting course at the last minute at Fashion Antidote in East London. I started on Saturday afternoon, such a nice excuse to leave a shoot at work early, and what was even better is the other people didn't turn up so I got some one on one tuition! Joy! In reality it would have been nice to have other people on the course too as that's how you further your learning and it makes it more fun but it was great to be able to learn at your own pace.

So far I have measured myself and drawn up  the basic skirt pattern. Next Saturday I move on to cutting it out on canvas and making a mock up to see how it fits - which makes me think I need to stop eating such large dinners just in case I add another inch on to that waistline..... I will post more about this after my next lesson with a little more information about how you can do it yourselves so you can make a sloper too. I have to say having someone talk me through it has help to demystify it a bit.

Until next time....


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