Made by Me!

Saturday, 1 March 2014

Pattern Cutting - Making a Skirt Sloper - Part 1

Okay so I was going to post this sooner but it has taken a little while to get all the information together and for it to sink in and make proper sense of it following the start of my pattern cutting skirt sloper course at Fashion Antidote. I am going to break down what I have learnt into a few posts because I think it’s easier to deal with that way. Hopefully this will be useful to someone. I just wanted to try and do a clear, concise instructional step by step which I found so difficult to find on the Internet.

This skirt sloper is for a fitted skirt that isn’t connected to a top so it has slightly less ease. Firstly you will need a few basic instruments to help you to accurately make your sloper. I have listed these below with some outlets to buy them - UK based I'm afraid - and if you want to take pattern cutting seriously you will need to invest in some of these things to do it properly.

A set square to get accurate corners, take measurements accurately across your block etc... I got mine from William Gee but it wasn't the cheapest thing to buy.

A metre rule - useful for drawing long accurate lines. A smaller ruler is also fine but it may be harder to get accurate lines. I bought mine in a local sewing shop but you can also get them on Ebay pretty cheap.

A French curve - this helps to draw the curved elements at the top of the sloper and from the waist to hip. Try morplan online, sew essential, Fred Aldous, Amazon or Ebay (everything is on Ebay!).

Or instead of all those you can get a pattern master - this useful little thing has curves on it and a ruler for measurements and straight lines. So you can avoid investing in a set square, ruler and French curve (which I did!). Try morplan online or Fred Aldous (cheaper).

Pencils and a rubber - pencils not too soft and because you will make mistakes a nice rubber to rub it all away again!

Pattern paper - I was taught using dot and cross paper which you can buy from Ebay in varying lengths including a huge roll if you want to! There is also squared off paper but it's quite busy to learn on so I prefer the other stuff as it feels like you can see what's happening.

Pattern notches - I had no idea these existed but basically it puts a little notch on your pattern piece where you want to mark essential elements like your hip line or dart. Pretty essential as scissors don't really cut it! Morplan does them but I got mine from Fred Aldous.

An awl - useful for poking holes in your pattern pieces where the dart point is although I am sure you could use something else sharp and pointy!

Tracing wheel - this little tool marks out essential points on to your card when you are moving your finalised paper pattern on to a solid stable card piece to keep as your base skirt pattern sloper. Get these from online sewing places such as William Gee.

**A quick note about the two items above - they are very sharp so make sure when you store them you do so carefully - its not pleasant picking up the wrong side of a tracing wheel a little too enthusiastically** 

Fabric - Choose some cotton to do a toile and check your sloper pattern on. You can get cheap fabric from any sewing store - don't go for any flimsy fabric as it may stretch when trying it on.

And finally paper scissors (never use your sewing fabric ones), pins, card for the final section and a little bit of patience.

Once you have all of this collected together then you are ready to move on to part 2! I promise to post that soon!!

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