Made by Me!

Sunday, 18 May 2014

Self drafting difficulties!

So all week I have been trying to work out how to best construct the bodice pattern I want to make up for myself. I am not sure that I chose the most straight forward of styles for my first self drafted pattern but I am giving it a go anyway and thought the process of my mistakes and realisations may be of interest to someone along the way.

I have decided to make a cowl top which is inspired by the top from the film 'The Help' in the post I wrote about the bodice pattern cutting class I went on recently. I am abandoning the shoulder bows but really like the inset cowl section at the front of the top and so I am on a bit of a creative journey to work out how to do it! The course has armed me with some knowledge but really I just have to give it a go and see what happens!

I started by tracing my personal bodice pattern piece on to pattern paper and cut out the triangular section of the bodice
from the bodice front. I took the remaining section of the pattern and created a cowl which I did by putting the tip of the pattern piece on a straight vertical line and moving the pattern piece back to create a triangular section. I sewed it all together roughly and realised it didn't quite work as the point of the triangle really doesn't sit well and it makes the whole front of the bodice to wrinkle. I hadn't sewn the back sections yet and so was just playing the with the bodice front on the dummy to check a rough fit and to see if the cowl was large enough. This actually was a mistake because as soon as I sewed the back of the top on to the front it showed the cowl was far too small as the shoulder lines pushed it closer to my neckline.

I also addressed the wrinkled front by taking out the cowl section and sewing it back on top of the main bodice piece. This seemed to work well so unless I have a more inspired solution to the problem then this is how I will lay the fabric on to the bodice, obviously hemming it first for neatness.

The main issue is that the cowl section is way too small to hang correctly and so it just looks pretty awkward at the moment and flat to the chest. Also the cowl section is made up of two triangles sewn together and when I finally make up the pattern I want a singular piece of fabric so it flows nicely.

I pinned the neck line on the back of the bodice so it is lower and then made the shoulder seams smaller to match the front pattern pieces. I transferred these changes on to the paper pattern. I originally had a shoulder dart but I moved this in to the back dart instead.


Now I need to re-do the toile and add a much
larger triangle of fabric on to the front cowl section.  The fabric I want to use is a little more supple and relaxed than cotton - in fact I have chosen a beautiful silk to sew my final project in but I have to be sure the pattern will work first otherwise it would be a total waste. Not to mention that I have never sewn with silk before so if I can pull this off it's a double first for me for new techniques!

Fingers crossed that it works! My final plan is to make a dress with a waistband and pencil skirt. I just thought it might be a bit easier to do than it has been so far though! But watch this space....



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