Made by Me!

Sunday, 10 April 2016

My Papercut Moana Top - Finished!

You will have seen a number of these lovely Moana tops popping up on bloggers pages in the last few weeks following the Spring release of the Ahoy Collection from Papercut patterns. I have bought four of the patterns from this collection so far, three immediately to take advantage of the early bird discount and then I kept on looking at the Bowline Sweater and couldn't hold off for much longer before buying that and the Waver jacket from a previous collection to boot....Not sure when I will get the time to make all of these things though as my boyfriend has now roped me into making him a shirt, well two shirts now he has seen the Grainline Archer I just whipped up. Anyway you should check out the patterns as the whole collection is a winner and they are steadily becoming one of my favourite pattern makers.

The Moana is a dress pattern with an option for a top which has a dipped hem at the back, is slightly cropped at the front and has a lovely floaty frill at the bottom. I love the dress but the silhouette is not for me, I have a feeling that it will just make me more 'hippy' which is not what you want when you are pear shaped. If I am honest I am not 100% sure that this top is truly the most flattering shape on me but well I started so I finished...! My main issue is that the top doesn't cover my belly...In my head I still think I have the tummy of a 20 year old but its makes such as this that remind me I really don't! Definitely need to get back on the regular!

The fabric is by far my favourite part of this top. Its spring and summer all rolled into one! I got it from Fabric Godmother but unfortunately they don't seem to have any left in any colourway. I have a little bit remaining from the 2 metres I bought and I am thinking about what I can do with it. Maybe a vest or a short skirt, underlined to make the fabric sturdier. Fingers crossed I have enough for something nice.

The construction of the Moana was pretty simple. Maybe not something a total beginner would want to take on but it wasn't overly difficult. I like the way the facing was sewn on, it involved rolling the fabric up and then sewing the pieces together which felt a little counter intuitive and it took me a good five minutes to work out how it would work.

This is the first time I have sewn a zip in this way and I like the look of it so plan to do this on more projects in the future. It makes the zip more of a feature and I am a little bored of invisible zips. I up-cycled it from an old Topshop top and it has worked quite nicely. The only bad thing was there wasn't enough fabric left at the top of the zip itself so it was hard to sew in neatly and the frayed edges poke out a little. Minor really but still annoying.

I have only made a couple of small alterations, and honestly this is why you should do a toile but I am pretty lazy so I kind of do fitting as I go. When I tried it on initially two things stood out - the arms were gaping like hell and the back neckline gaped a little too. Nothing too bad but it was enough that I just didn't feel comfortable in it and I knew it would bug me when wearing it. I ended up taking in the armhole by about 2cms each side. This worked brilliantly and it fits so much better now but the only way I could think to make the back sit properly was to insert a couple of really, really small darts. I wonder if this means my shoulders are sloping forward as this has just created a slightly more fitted effect, curving round the back of the neck. I am hoping it isn't overly obvious.

The hem of the frill is a small rolled hem. I was so close to finishing this top and then I had to contemplate whether to do the hem the long way,  fold over a small hem, sew, clip and then repeat or do it with a rolled hem foot. I tried this foot once before and it made me want to throw the machine out the window so the long way was looking more appealing but I bit the bullet and gave it a go! This time I can't say that it went swimmingly but there was a reasonable stretch of stitching that I didn't mess up. This foot is not as easy to use as the You Tube videos would have you believe but once you get the knack it gets a little easier each time. It seems to be all about feeding the fabric through at a certain angle so the fabric curls under itself. Starting and stopping is very annoying if you end of loosing the fabric part way through but I got there eventually.

I really like the top but may lengthen it slightly next time. I worry too much about my belly bulge!! With a pair of high waisted jeans its just about fine and actually the cropped part of top isn't that cropped especially with the frill but I think a longer one may be more versatile. What do you think? Is the Moana on your sewing list?